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Cusco Day 15 – Museums and Culture

Jan 20th 2011

Machu Picchu was incredible and I am glad I went, but I am happy to be “home” back at the hostel in Cusco. The dorm was full so I had to move into the double room again, but this time there was no Canadian to annoy me. My roommate is an eccentric older lady who has been suffering from flu and has shopped more than me.

Decisions
Cathleen came over so we could hang out and we sat to discuss future plans. She had hoped to do a jungle tour, but it had fallen through. When I mentioned going to Lake Titicaca she was game. So we went downstairs to book tickets at the travel desk. Leaving tomorrow at 8am we would have a 6hr bus trip there and then return 2 nights later on an overnight. The only bummer in this plan was that we would get in at 4am on monday and I had to be at the airport at noon, so a bit tight, but all is fine. The tickets cost 50 soles ( $17 US) each way. We also booked our hostel (same as the one in Aguas Calientes as they have free pick up). Then we went to enjoy a day around town.

Museums
When you want to go visit any historical site or museum you have to buy “The Big Ticket”. It costs 140 soles ($47 US) and includes around 12 sites. So to get the best value for money you have to try and go to all the places. This was the plan for today, we were going to see as many museums in Cusco as possible and end the evening with a cultural dance.

So thats the answer to the pyramids
For the most part the museums and art galleries were interesting, but I am not sure we were getting our money’s worth. Then we came across the muncipal art gallery. In an entire room there was a very stoned “artist”. Dreadlocked beard and hair, barefoot and showing a slide show explaining the power of “the light” he explained his plan for recycling in Cusco. Take pieces of trash and turn them into art (now thats a new idea). He had random pieces of card and paper with paint on them, straw all over the floor and a pyramid made of the traditional mud bricks used in houses. When an American lady asked if he had made the bricks his response was as follows “No man…. but we built the pyramid!”
At that point I made for the door before I cracked up laughing, I am certain the muncipality gave him the space for his own safety and to keep him off the streets.

Panaderia (bakery)
We headed back to sort out some laundry and get lunch and then hoped to make it in time to one more museum and the dance show. We had found a bakery (at the top of a very steep hill again) and grabbed some deliciousness that we sat and ate in the plaza. At one point two lines of police in full riot gear streamed on either side of us and lined up behind us. That definately gives you pause. Turns out there was a car ralley that would go through the main plaza at some point that day.

After watching one or two cars go by we lost interest and headed to the museum. Unfortunately we arrived 5minutes to closing and weren’t able to make it to the museum, so with some time to kill we grabbed a rum raisin icecream and perused a book store.

The cultural dance show was amazing and at the end they invited us to dance on stage, always game for a dance (after a few people were on stage already) I went to join. Had a blast, couldn’t breathe but felt fantastic.

Nuna Raymis…again
We decided to share a lasagne at my favorite restaurant, delicious as usual. It was amusing how they leapt up to welcome us, saw it was me and just made a friendly “oh its you, welcome back” gesture.

Then home again. Cathleen was still staying at the other hostel, but planned to come at 7am in the morning with a bag of goodies from the bakery (it was on her way).

Always good to have a relatively chill day.

Next is my longest bus ride, Puno and Lake Titicaca!

 
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Posted by on February 1, 2011 in RTW, Travel, Uncategorized

 

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Lima day 5 – solo adventure and museums

Jan 10th 2011

Today Fernando has a business meeting out of the city and so I have the whole day to keep myself occupied. I decide that it is time to step out on my own and test my skills on local transport. Heading out to the appropriate curb I grab a bus heading to Miraflores so I can meet up with Katia and see her shop. Fernando had instructed me to catch the green, red and white bus to Barranco. However, I recognised the name of Chorillyos and knew it was after Barranco, after quickly checking with the guy if they head to Miraflores I jumped on.

The small local busses that you just grab on the side of the street have a ticket taker come intense collector of passengers. These men and women ride half hanging out of the bus announcing the destination and trying to encourage folks to ride their bus. In between these techniques to attract new customers they wander around the bus jingling change and collecting the fair. It is all rather amusing.

The ticket taker on this bus kept giving me encouraging winks (at least thats what I am going with) and when a guy came and stood right in front of me he tried to make the guy move so I could see. The guy didn’t but I appreciated the attempt. After about 30min I finally recognised the big circle and bus stop and hopped off. What a relief. After a quick call to Katia she came and met me.

Her store is fantastic, with lots of cute and …. interesting stuff made by local young designers. The best was still Katia’s jewellery and I really want to buy a pair of her earrings. We hung out at her store as she worked on updating the inventory and price stickers for the new year. Around noon we walked over to a chifa (small chinese restaurant) and met Danny for lunch. But first, bless her heart, we had an icecream, she is a girl after my own heart.

We had the ever present Inka Kola and pork/veggies and crunchie noodles. Very filling and delicious. Walking back to the bus stop I hopped on the next bus and headed home.

I had hoped to get some laundry done, but when I got back to the house, Fernando’s mom was there and I could tell she was really busy so didn’t want to ask. Instead I decided to head to the museum she had recommended. As luck would have it, Fernando’s dad was heading out the door so gave me a ride.

Larco Museum:

The museum was amazing, very well laid out and not overwhelming. The exhibits were inset into a black wall and so the lighting was perfect. They even had a small room with a library and free internet (at least I assumed it was free). There was a room for what I can only assume was the overstock, glass case after glass case of pottery all sorted into sections. It just blows your mind.

Fernando’s parents had told me there was also an Erotica exhibit of Inca pottery (which was a little weird having them telling me to check it out). It turned out to be almost hidden away with the lights off. As you enter the lights come on section by section. I had thought this was because of children, but according to Fernando it is due to the prudish nature of the catholic religion. Lets just say the Incas left little to the imagination and one could get quite hot under the collar.
WARNING SENSITIVE PICTURES BELOW

Once I was all done there I headed home and decided to just walk the 15 blocks hoping to come across a bakery I had seen on the way. I didn’t find the bakery but just when I decided to have an icecream from one of the guys selling them on bikes, there were none to be found. Go figure. By the time I got home I was exhausted and crashed for 2hrs. Fernando came home around 10pm and we watched “Descent 2”, stupid scary, but amusing all the same.

Stay tuned for further adventures through “cat park”, more new friends and string glorious string.

 
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Posted by on January 23, 2011 in Uncategorized

 

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